Things to do in Varkala: cliffs, beaches and Kerala backwaters

It is a place to take slowly: two or three days for the cliff and the beaches, and one more for the backwaters, the temples and Anchuthengu Fort. Its relaxed atmosphere has made it the laid-back alternative to Goa and Kovalam.

What to see in Varkala: top sights

Top sightsAreas to stay

North Cliff, the clifftop walk
A path along red laterite cliffs, declared a national geological monument, with the sea on one side and a line of cafés, shops and terraces on the other. It is the centre of life in Varkala, especially at sunset, when everyone gathers to watch the sun sink into the sea.
Recommended time: At your own pace
Tip: At night the cliff edge is not always fenced or lit: walk with a torch and away from the edge.
Papanasam Beach
The main beach, at the foot of the cliff. Its name means “that washes away sins”: Hindus come to make offerings to their ancestors, especially at the Karkidaka Vavu festival in July or August. Small springs believed to be healing trickle down the cliff.
Recommended time: Half a day
Tip: Waves and currents can be strong: swim only in front of the lifeguards and follow the flags. The ritual areas at the southern end are not for sunbathing.
Hotels near Papanasam Beach · 525 properties
Janardhana Swamy Temple
A temple to Vishnu on a hill near the beach, centuries old and built in Kerala’s traditional style: sloping roofs and stone courtyards. It is the reason for the pilgrimage to Varkala and the heart of its festivals.
Recommended time: 30 min
Tip: The interior is usually reserved for Hindus; the complex can be seen well from outside. Dress modestly.
Black Beach, Odayam and Edava
North of the cliff, the sand darkens at Black Beach, quieter than Papanasam. Following the coast you reach Odayam and Edava, almost empty beaches next to fishing villages with their boats and a mosque facing the sea.
Recommended time: 2–3 h
Tip: Walk along the cliff at sunrise or late in the afternoon: the path is beautiful and it is cooler.
Kappil Beach and Lake
About 9 km north, Kappil Lake meets the sea separated only by a strip of sand: fresh water and palm trees on one side, waves on the other. It is one of the best sunsets in the area, and you can hire boats on the lake.
Recommended time: 1–2 h
Sivagiri Mutt
The resting place of Sree Narayana Guru, the philosopher and social reformer who fought caste discrimination in Kerala. His shrine, on a quiet hill, is a pilgrimage centre, especially at the end of December, when thousands of devotees dressed in yellow arrive for the annual pilgrimage.
Recommended time: 45 min
Tip: Dress modestly and take your shoes off where indicated.
Ponnumthuruthu Island
The “golden island”, in the backwaters south of Varkala, with a temple to Shiva and Parvati among palm trees. You reach it by boat from Nedunganda on a peaceful ride through canals, coconut groves and Chinese fishing nets.
Recommended time: 2 h
Tip: The boat ride is the best part: go in the morning, when the water is calm and it is cooler.
Anchuthengu Fort
A fort the British East India Company built by the sea at the end of the 17th century, one of the first English posts on the Kerala coast, with its old cemetery. Next to it, Anchuthengu lighthouse gives a wide view of the coast and the backwaters.
Recommended time: 1–1.5 h

Day trips from Varkala

Thiruvananthapuram
1–1.5 h by train or car
Kerala’s capital, with the Padmanabhaswamy Temple (Hindus only, with a strict dress code), the Napier Museum in an Indo-Saracenic building and Kuthiramalika Palace.
Kollam and Munroe Island
1–1.5 h by car
The most authentic backwaters in this part of Kerala: by canoe along narrow canals between coconut palms, villages and coir works. At sunrise the trip is especially beautiful.
Jatayu Earth’s Center
1 h by car
A giant sculpture of Jatayu, the mythical bird of the Ramayana, on a rocky hill, with a cable car and views over rice fields and forest. A very different outing from the beach.

Varkala in 3 days

Day 1
Day 1: morning on Papanasam beach, a walk along North Cliff and lunch on its terraces; in the afternoon, Black Beach and sunset from the cliff.
Day 2
Day 2: a boat to Ponnumthuruthu Island in the morning and a visit to Anchuthengu Fort and lighthouse; on the way back, the Janardhana Swamy Temple and Sivagiri.
Day 3
Day 3: a day trip to Munroe Island or Thiruvananthapuram, or a morning of ayurveda and yoga and sunset at Kappil.

Varkala with kids

Collecting shells and watching the fishermen at Black Beach and Odayam.
The boat ride to Ponnumthuruthu Island.
Climbing Anchuthengu lighthouse.
The cable car and the giant sculpture at Jatayu Earth’s Center.

Free things to do in Varkala

Sunset from North Cliff.
Walking the cliff from end to end.
The quiet beaches of Black Beach, Odayam and Edava.
The springs trickling down the cliff at Papanasam.

Where to stay in Varkala

Almost all accommodation is spread along the cliff and around it. North Cliff has more atmosphere; the northern beaches and South Cliff are calmer.

North Cliff
Hotels, guesthouses and ayurveda centres right on the cliff, with the cafés and the views on the doorstep. Lively in season.
Papanasam Beach
By the main beach and the temple, a few minutes’ walk from the cliff. Practical for going down to the beach every day.
Places to stay in Papanasam Beach · 525 properties
South Cliff
The quieter southern end, with resorts and yoga and ayurveda retreats overlooking the sea.
Odayam and Edava
To the north, next to almost empty beaches and fishing villages. For a few peaceful days, within walking distance of North Cliff.
Places to stay in Odayam and Edava · 119 properties

See places to stay in Varkala · 567 properties

When to go to Varkala

November to March is the best time: dry, sunny weather, a calmer sea and every café and guesthouse on the cliff open.

April and May are hot and humid. From June to September the monsoon arrives: heavy rain and a dangerous sea, and many clifftop businesses close; in return, it is the traditional season for ayurvedic treatments.

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Frequently asked questions about Varkala

Can you swim at Varkala beach?

Yes, but carefully: waves and currents can be strong, especially out of season. Swim only in front of the lifeguards and follow the flags; during the monsoon it is better to stay out of the water.

What is the best time to visit Varkala?

November to March, the dry season, with a calmer sea and every business open. In the monsoon, from June to September, it rains heavily and many places close.

How do you get to Varkala?

Varkala Sivagiri station is on Kerala’s main railway line, with trains from Thiruvananthapuram, Kochi and other cities. The nearest airport is Thiruvananthapuram, 1–1.5 h away by car.

Is there ayurveda and yoga in Varkala?

Yes, it is one of its specialities: there are many ayurveda centres and yoga schools, especially on the cliff. For longer treatments, choose centres with qualified ayurvedic doctors.